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“A Tuna’s Worth”

“Bluefin tuna are a luxury that feeds the egos of many, the bellies of few. Inside a Canadian fishery that pursues them.”

““Are your feet on red dirt yet?”

I gaze down at my feet. An hour after landing in Charlottetown, the soles of my boots are already stained the ocher of Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest province, off its southeast coast.

“I’ve got a fish hailed for 2 p.m. at North Lake,” Jason Tompkins continues, over my cellphone. “If you leave right now, you might just make it.” I start the car before he can finish and drive like hell, past the oil tanker in the Charlottetown harbor, past the American-owned blueberry processing plant, past the yellow autumn leaves still clinging to trees along the two-lane highway, toward the island’s eastern tip.”

Sasha Chapman reports for Hakai magazine August 18, 2020.